Problems | Cause | Remedy |
| 1. Zinga does not dry | The incorrect solvent was used for thinning | Discard all suspect Zinga, and begin again with new Zinga from unopened tins |
| 2. Zinga dries but goes rubbery in places | It was applied over an old coating | Re-blast the entire affected area and check that a surface cleanliness of SA 2.5 has been achieved before progressing any further. |
| 3. Zinga ‘cobwebs’ when being sprayed by conventional spray-gun | The Zinga has not been thinned correctly | Make sure that the Zinga is thinned approximately 5% with Zingasolv |
| 4. Zinga has an ‘orange-peel’ appearance and also sometimes dries slower | The Zinga was applied too thickly, or was not thinned correctly | Dilute the Zinga +/- 5% with Zingasolv and apply 2 or 3 thinner coats |
| 5. More Zinga than estimated is being used | The blast profile is too deep | Change the blast-media to the correct grade before proceeding |
| 6. Less Zinga is being used than estimated | The Zinga has been over-thinned | Use new Zinga from an unopened tin, and dilute it with the over-thinned Zinga |
| 7. Excessive misting developes when spraying | The Zinga has been over-thinned | Use new Zinga from an un-opened tin. Dilute it with the over-thinned Zinga |
| 8. After drying the Zinga can be easily removed | The steelwork was not blast-cleaned, or was not given the correct profile | Select the correct grade of blast-media and re-blast the entire area |
| 9. After drying, the Zinga coating remains ‘cheesy’ | The Zinga has been applied over oil or grease. | The affected area must be thoroughly washed down with strong detergent or a steam lance, and re-blasted |
| 10. After UHP-blasting the Zinga displays poor adhesion qualities | The original blast-profile, it there was one, has not been sufficiently exposed to provide a ‘key’ | The entire affected area must be re-blasted, with either grit or slurry, and the blast-profile depth checked before any subsequent coatings are applied |
| 11. After being coated, the steelwork displays a patchy appearance when viewed obliquely | Either the Zinga has been over-thinned or the blast-profile is too deep. | Check the viscosity of the liquid, and apply subsequent coats until the patches disappear |
| 12. A topcoat over Zinga forms blisters or delaminates | The top-coat has been applied too heavily, causing solvent entrapment | Remove the topcoat (and Zinga if required) and re-apply at the correct dry film thickness |
| 13. A topcoat remains cheesy after application onto Zinga | The top-coat was an alkyd enamel | Wash off the coatings with acetone and re-blast the whole affected area. |
| 14. Powder-coating displays pinholes after the baking schedule has been completed | The Zinga coating was not given sufficient curing time | Re-blast the entire affected area and re-apply both coatings. Pre-heating the steelwork helps drive any trapped solvents |
| 15. Over hot-dip galvanizing, the Zinga layer breaks away | The HDG was too new to be over-coated with Zinga | Ensure that all passivation has been removed and sweep-blast the HDG at a pressure of 60 psi |
How To Repair a Padded Dashboard
When restoring older cars, it is often too expensive to replace a cracked dashboard. And, that is assuming a new dash board is available. In cases where new parts are too expensive, too difficult to find, or, impossible to find, you will need to restore what is already there. The padded dashboard on this 1971
